CONCRETE GRINDING
Concrete grinding in Brisbane for coatings, levelling and preparation
A coating or an overlay is only as good as the concrete under it, and concrete that hasn’t been opened up doesn’t hold anything for long. Grinding takes off the failed epoxy, the tile glue, the carpet adhesive and the laitance, flattens the high spots, and leaves the profile the next system specifies. The dust is captured at the machine, so it isn’t through the building afterwards. Floors, walls and overhead.
What comes off
- Failed epoxy, polyurethane and paint coatings
- Tile, carpet and vinyl adhesives
- Laitance, curing compounds and sealers
- High spots, trip edges and trowel marks
- Rust staining and surface contamination
What we do it on
- Warehouse, workshop and factory floors
- Garages, car parks and driveways
- Balconies, walkways and wet areas
- Walls, columns and retaining walls
- Overhead: soffits, beams and slab undersides
Grinding is for concrete and masonry. If there’s steel, stone or a surface that has to keep its face, that’s a laser job and we’ll say so.
How we do it
The machine and the diamonds are chosen for what’s on the floor and what has to be left behind: a coarse cut to strip a thick epoxy, a finer one to open up a slab for a thin-film coating, a levelling pass where the slab is out. Walls and overhead are done with hand and mounted grinders with the same extraction.
Dust is the thing everyone worries about, and rightly, because concrete dust carries silica. Every grinder runs to a vacuum with the filtration to capture it at the source, operators wear respiratory protection, and the area is contained. It’s the same standard we ran on construction sites and it’s in the safe-work method statement that comes with every job.
What you get back
A flat, open concrete surface at the profile the next coating, overlay or adhesive specifies, with the old material gone rather than ground into the pores. If you’ve given us the coating supplier’s spec, we work to it and name it on the handover.
Before and after photos, and a straight word about what we found: cracks, soft spots, moisture coming up through the slab, anything that will fail the next coating if it isn’t dealt with first.
JOBS LIKE THIS
Jobs like this
Failed epoxy off a workshop floor
A peeling coating stripped back to sound concrete and the slab opened up for the new system, with the dust captured rather than settling on the racking.
Tile and carpet glue off a slab
Adhesive ground off ready for the next floor, edges and corners included, without leaving a film that stops the new adhesive bonding.
Levelling and trip edges
High spots, joints and lips taken down on walkways and floors, and the slab flattened where the next overlay needs it.
BEFORE YOU RING
Questions people ask
How much dust is there?
Very little in the air. Every grinder runs to a vacuum with fine filtration, so the dust is captured at the machine, and the area is contained. Concrete dust is a silica hazard, so this isn’t a nicety; it’s how the job is set up.
Can you grind walls and overhead?
Yes. Walls, columns and the undersides of slabs and beams are done with hand-held and mounted grinders running to the same extraction. Overhead is slower per square metre and we’ll quote it that way.
What profile will I get?
The one the next system needs. Tell us the coating, overlay or adhesive going down, or give us the supplier’s spec sheet, and we choose the cut to match. If you don’t know yet, we’ll leave a profile that suits most floor coatings and say what it is.
Can the building stay in use?
Usually. Grinding is noisy, so we schedule it around occupancy, and the area being ground is contained. The rest of the floor stays open, and there’s no slurry or wet process to dry out before it’s walked on.
How do I get a price?
A photo of the floor, a rough size in square metres, and what’s on it now and what’s going on next. Kira will reply with what we’d do and a price or a range, usually the same business day.
THE PROCESS
How the job runs
- 01
Send a photo
A photo and a rough size is enough. We’ll tell you what we’d do and what it involves before anyone drives out.
- 02
Method chosen
Laser, blasting, washing or grinding, depending on the surface and what’s on it.
- 03
Removal
Only the layer that has to go. With the laser, nothing is driven into the surface and nothing is left behind on it.
- 04
Inspection
We check it with you. If a spot isn’t right, we fix it before we leave.
- 05
Handover
The surface ready for the next step, with photos of what came off.
OTHER JOBS
Other jobs we get asked for
Every one of these starts the same way: a photo, a rough size, and a straight answer about what we’d do.
Blasting, washing and grinding →Rust removal
Rust, mill scale and oxide off steel, iron and castings, back to bare metal that’s ready for primer.
Car paint stripping
Paint, powder coat, underseal and rust off panels, chassis, wheels and castings, with no heat and no grit.
Engine bay cleaning
Paint, grease, rust and old underseal off the bay, the firewall and the block, without pulling the engine.
Antifoul and hull prep
Antifoul, paint, oxide and growth off hulls, keels, shafts, props and fittings, captured rather than left on the hardstand.
Graffiti and masonry cleaning
Paint, soot and biological growth off sandstone, brick, render and concrete, including listed buildings, without chemicals or abrasion.
Pressure washing
Mould, algae, dirt and loose paint off large areas of render, concrete, pavements and cladding.